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Dermarolling for hair growth — does It work, or will it just hurt?

Dermatologists weigh in.
A dermaroller has tons of tiny little needs that cause micro-injuries when you roll it over the skin.
A dermaroller has tons of tiny little needs that cause micro-injuries when you roll it over the skin.

We don’t always have the answers, but we have some people on speed dial who do — which is why we present to you our series FYI where we have experts explain if lip balm is actually bad, how often should you wash your hair and more.

You’ve probably heard of dermarolling — also referred to as microneedling — for your face. The process can be done at home or in-office and involves using a device with lots of little needles to puncture the skin to increase collagen production and help skin care ingredients sink in deeper. Along with these facial benefits, some believe using a dermaroller on your scalp could help encourage hair growth. There’s an entire contingency of people on TikTok who swear it has worked for them.

We’ve reported before on the importance of maintaining scalp health for healthy hair, so it makes sense that a hair growth treatment would focus on this area. But does rolling a bunch of needles over your head really help with thinning hair? To find out, we turned to dermatologists to answer all of our questions. Here’s what they had to say.

What is dermarolling?

“Dermarolling involves using a small, handheld device covered in tiny needles to create micro-injuries on the skin’s surface,” says Dr. Kristina Collins, a board-certified dermatologist specializing in Mohs micrographic surgery, as well as surgical and cosmetic dermatology in Texas. “These injuries stimulate the body’s natural healing response, boosting collagen production and improving the appearance of the skin.”

The tool used to do this is a roller with fine needles, the length of which varies depending on the specific skin condition being addressed. “The procedure is minimally invasive and is usually done in a series of treatments, either at home or in a professional setting,” says Collins.

Though most commonly talked about as a treatment for your face, it can be used on the scalp or body for different skin concerns, says Dr. Alexandra Bowles, a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology in Cincinnati.

Can dermarolling help with hair growth?

The quick answer is yes, dermarolling can help with hair growth. “The process of microneedling the scalp stimulates blood flow, which in turn promotes hair follicle activity and increases the delivery of essential nutrients to the hair roots,” says Collins. These nutrients help create an atmosphere that is supportive of new hair growth.

The micro-injuries caused by the needles when you dermaroll may also strengthen the hair you already have (and the new hair you are encouraging to grow). “Like with focal skin, dermarolling the scalp stimulates collagen and elastin production, strengthening the hair follicles and the surrounding skin,” explains Collins. “This can improve the overall health of the hair.”

Finally, using a dermaroller before you apply hair growth oils or serums can help them work better because it encourages the absorption and, therefore, improves their effectiveness, says Bowles.

How to dermaroll for hair growth

If you want to try dermarolling your scalp at home, our experts suggest doing it twice a week — any more could lead to irritation. These are the steps they recommend following:

  • Choose the right needle length: For scalp dermarolling, a needle length between 0.25mm and 1.5mm is typically used. Shorter needles are great for general scalp health and improving product absorption, while longer needles are better for stimulating hair growth, says Collins.
  • Clean your scalp: Before you begin, wash your hair and scalp thoroughly with shampoo to avoid any dirt or bacteria being pushed into your skin, says Collins. You should also wash your dermaroller with soap and water.
  • Roll gently: Leave your hair down, so the dermaroller can move more easily through your strands. “Move the dermaroller gently across the scalp in different directions—vertical, horizontal, and diagonal—to target all areas,” says Collins. “Apply mild pressure, but avoid pressing too hard, as this can lead to irritation.”
  • Apply a serum: “After you finish rolling, apply a nourishing serum or hair growth treatment,” says Bowles. Another option is to use essential oils like rosemary oil, which is known to support hair growth, adds Collins.

Highly rated dermarollers

Risks of dermarolling for hair growth

Before trying anything new, understanding the possible risks is a good idea. Certain people may want to avoid dermarolling altogether. “Those with scalp conditions like psoriasis, eczema, or active infections should avoid dermarolling, because it can worsen these conditions and cause further irritation,” says Bowles. “Those with clotting disorders or who are on blood thinning medications should also avoid it since the procedure can increase the risk of bleeding.”

According to our experts, if you don’t have any of the above conditions, using an at-home dermaroller for hair growth is most likely safe as long as you have a healthy scalp. That said, they did outline the potential risks below:

  • Infection: “The primary risk of dermarolling the scalp is an infection if the roller isn’t properly sanitized or if the skin is broken,” says Bowles.
  • Irritation: If you dermaroll your scalp too often or use excessive pressure, it can lead to irritation, redness or inflammation, says Collins. As a reminder, the maximum you should dermaroll is twice a week and it’s important only to use gentle pressure.
  • Hair breakage: “If the dermaroller is used incorrectly or with too long a needle, it could potentially damage existing hair, causing breakage.” says Collins.

Other ways to encourage hair growth

Demarolling isn’t the only thing you can do to encourage healthy hair growth. Our experts said there are several other proven ways to get hair to grow. Here are their suggestions:

  • Minoxidil: This FDA-approved topical is one of the most widely used treatments for hair thinning and pattern baldness, says Collins. It’s the active ingredient in Rogaine, along with many other hair loss treatments, and can be purchased over the counter.
  • A healthy diet: “Eating a balanced diet that is rich in vitamins and minerals, particularly biotin, vitamin D, and iron, can also support healthy hair growth,” says Bowles.
  • Low-level laser therapy (LLLT): If you go to your dermatologist, they may suggest low-level laser therapy. This involves using a device like a laser comb or helmet that emits low-level light to stimulate hair follicles and encourage growth, says Collins.
  • Scalp massage: Similar to how a dermaroller brings blood flow to your scalp, regularly massaging the scalp can also increase blood flow to hair follicles, supporting healthier hair growth, says Collins.

Meet our experts

At NBC Select, we work with experts with specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and experience. We also ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.

  • Dr. Kristina Collins is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in Mohs micrographic surgery, as well as surgical and cosmetic dermatology in Texas
  • Dr. Alexandra Bowles is board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology in Cincinnati.

Why trust NBC Select?

Bethany Heitman is a contributor at NBC Select and a journalist who regularly covers beauty, home and lifestyle. For this story, she interviewed dermatologists about dermarolling for hair growth.

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