Europe is known for being quite strict when it comes to regulations on beauty products. For example, they don’t allow any animal testing for cosmetics, there is a list of over 1,700 ingredients that are fully banned and marketing claims have to be proven and substantiated by evidence. More proof of Europe’s strict beauty regulations: As of September 1, they have banned an ingredient called Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO), which is commonly used in many gel nail polishes.
If you live in the United States, you won’t be impacted by this ban and gel polish containing TPO will continue to be widely available. Even still, this news may give you pause — if Europe is banning this ingredient, should we be staying away from it, too? To answer that very question, we turned to two dermatologists. But first, read more about this reasoning for this ban overseas.
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Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO) is a photoinitiator — a fancy word for a molecule that absorbs UV or visible light and generates a reaction of some sort. In the case of TPO, that reaction is a curing or hardening. “In polish, when [TPO] is activated by UV light, it hardens the product on the nail and forms a film,” says Dr. Jeffrey S. Fromowitz, a board-certified dermatologist and medical director and managing partner at Dermatology of Boca in Boca Raton, Florida.
In the beauty world this ingredient is really only used in gel nail polish. Outside of that, you can find it in certain adhesives, sealants and inks.
The European Union banned TPO because animal studies done on rats associated it with negative reproductive outcomes for males. One thing to know: The rats were repeatedly fed high doses of TPO — much more than one would be exposed to via a gel manicure. Because of these findings, as of September 1, no gel nail polish containing TPO can be sold in Europe. On top of that, European nail technicians must immediately stop using polish they have that contains TPO.
It’s helpful to know that regulations set forth by the European Union are typically more strict because they are based on potential risks, which may or may not be seen in a real-world setting, says Fromowitz. In this case, the conditions in these animal settings do not mimic real world usage and no studies have been done on humans to determine if TPO is actually dangerous, which is why the United States Food and Drug Administration is unlikely to ban them.
Again, the European Union is banning TPO because they believe there is potential risk to the reproductive system. “It is believed to be an endocrine disruptor (harmful to reproduction),” says Dr. Allison Leer, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Botanist Nails. “Endocrine disruptors have the potential to interfere with the body’s hormone system which can have adverse effects such as reduced fertility and birth defects.”
Again, while it is possible, there really isn’t much proof that using TPO can cause issues with infertility since there have been zero studies done looking for risks in humans, says Fromowitz. Given this, it’s really up to you whether you want to cease using gel nail polish that contains TPO.
Looking for an alternative to gel polish with TPO? “Traditional nail polish doesn’t require a UV light and there are many non-toxic formulas available,” says Leer. Below, we rounded up a handful of TPO-free polishes. We prioritized options that provide a similar long-lasting effect and that have high ratings.
This four step nail system gives you the look of a gel mani without the UV light and polish that contains TPO. You start with the brand’s nail prep to remove any oils or lotions from your nails, then layer on a base coat, the polish and a top coat. Everything dries within five minutes and the manicure will last up to seven days, according to the brand. This kit has all the products you need, including a bottle of the brand’s polish in their Rapid Red color.
This polish gives nails mega shine, similar to a gel polish. It is intended to be paired with the brand’s gel-like top coat to make your manicure last up to 8 days, according to Sally Hansen. It is available in 22 colors on Amazon, including sheer and sparkly options.
This two-step polish set from Essie comes with a color (choose from 23 shades) and a top coat that gives you a super glossy finish. To get a manicure that lasts as long as possible, apply two coats of the color and then top with the gel-like top coat and let it dry completely. The brush on this polish is also shaped in a special way to easily cover the edges nicely, according to the brand. The set has a 4.6-star average rating from over 11,150 reviews on Amazon.
“Press-on nails are also a good alternative to gel polish,” says Leer. “If applied correctly they look very similar to a manicure and they don’t damage your natural nails.” These press-ons from Glamnetic come in over 40 colors, designs and nail shapes — allowing you to really customize nails to suit your needs and wants. They come with easy-to-apply glue and will last up to two weeks, according to the brand.
Don’t like the feeling of press-ons? These nail stickers give you a similar look but feel a bit more like polish sitting on your nail. There are 28 nail strips in varying sizes included, so you can find the perfect fit for your hands. The set also comes with a prep pad, nail file and wooden stick. There are fifteen designs available and they have a 4.2-star average rating from over 540 reviews on Amazon.
At NBC Select, we work with experts with specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.
- Dr. Jeffrey S. Fromowitz is a board-certified dermatologist and the medical director and managing partner at Dermatology of Boca in Boca Raton, Florida
- Dr. Allison Leer is a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Botanist Nails
Bethany Heitman is a contributor at NBC Select and a journalist who regularly covers topics like beauty, home and lifestyle. For this story, she interviewed dermatologists on menopausal skin.
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